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      <image:title>Blog - How I Keep Plants Alive on Next to No Natural Light - Make it stand out</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
      <image:caption>H. Eriostemma Guppyi with an enormous leaf! Also, just so I have aspirations, here are the roots.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - One Month Update: Eriostemmas from Rare-Hoyas.com</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/blog/potting-rhipsalis-in-mulitples</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-06-27</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593224570476-YMBFGF64U2J1E1IF87EI/rhipsalismesembryanthemoides.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593221106283-XSF13J5HAZWDX4UOOTWJ/rhippotting2.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here I have everything I need. My plants, the wide, shallow pot I chose (my favorite for multiple plants because when you get a pot that’s wide and deep, you risk the bottom half of the soil staying wet for too long between watering and thus inviting root rot) all the soil that I will mix to create a nice Epiphyte mix, and my trusty mixing bowl, cup and spoons which are all from Ikea. This Better Gro Special Orchid mix is my favorite. It has bark, nice chunky perlite, and charcoal. It saves me a lot of time buying this. I used to buy them all separately but it was more time consuming and expensive, so I just get the Better Gro at Lowe’s now. I mix that with a basic potting mix from my local garden center and I follow the directions in on the Earthworm Castings. They’re really beneficial, I’ve found and you can read more about them here if you’d like.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Next I filled the pot with enough of the mixture to fill the bottom of the pot.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593222115469-IZX53X2YZ50Z6DDAM7XX/rhippotting5.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Next I removed each plant from the plastic nursery pot and very lightly removed any loose soil. If a ton of soil falls away, the plant is probably lightly rooted. The first plant I removed was like this. I discarded the soil that fell away and suported the plant in the pot with fresh soil. If no soil falls away, that’s fine, too. What’s most important is to cause as little damage and disruption to the roots as possible. It’s going to be very disturbing to the plant if you remove all the soil or wash the roots bare. I have personally never done that and do not plan to do it. My modus operandi when repotting is to cause as little disruption to the root system as possible. After placing all three plants into the pot, you’ll see that I have three pockets (one is visible right in the front) without soil.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593222466448-DV9TI4LQI6SFY04PEKIA/rhippotting6.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I used my spoon to fill in those areas, and that’s it! I didn’t water in this case because the plants didn’t need it. In cases where they’re dry, I would water. I did make sure that all three plants were equally moist before I planted so that I won’t end up with one plant thirsty in two days while the other plants won’t need water for a week. That’s something I generally don’t have a problem with, however. Once the plants have acclimated to the pot and to each other, they begin to function as one plant as far as water needs. That’s just my experience, but it wouldn’t hurt to check each plant with a water meter or your finger if you are unsure.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593223685927-QXRGI54WYYGZ77WCNIB6/Rhipsaliscereusculatrio.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Next up is Rhipsalis Cereuscula.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593222749371-U6W7512R2GDSSFN0UTJA/rhippotting.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I followed the same steps as above. I filled the bottom of my pot with the soil mixture and I removed the first plant from the nursery pot. I paused to take a photo here to show that the roots of this plant are relatively undisturbed and still in the form of the plastic pot in which they were previously growing. You can see the larger roots with smaller roots branching off, and even smaller hairs branching off, too. These smaller roots and hairs are the ones that are likely to sustain injury or damage if you remove too much soil. It’s obviously best to avoid that. We are always so careful not to damage any leaves or stems in a repot, and it’s important to be just as careful with the root systems. I chose a basic terra-cotta for this multi pot rather than a wide but shallow pot. This is because the nursery pots of these two plants were deeper pots than the Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides. I checked the roots while I was still at the nursery and saw that the roots extended to the bottom of the nursery pots, so I knew that soil down there would be put to use nourishing a root system. Additionally, putting two plants into one wide but shallow pot is fine, but it can look a little less full. I like the look if the trio better in that style of pot. In this case, both Rhipsalis Cereuscula had roots that filled their nursery pots, which is great. I slipped both plants into the pot, which I measured for size while at the nursery, and filled any spaces with soil.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - Potting Rhipsalis in Mulitples.</image:title>
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    <lastmod>2020-06-21</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Blog - Pilgrimage to Hirt’s Gardens and Boyert’s Greenhouse &amp;amp; Farm.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - Pilgrimage to Hirt’s Gardens and Boyert’s Greenhouse &amp;amp; Farm.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Blog - Pilgrimage to Hirt’s Gardens and Boyert’s Greenhouse &amp;amp; Farm.</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/blog/hoya-longifolia-in-bloom</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-10-18</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Blog - Hoya Longifolia In Bloom. (Updated)</image:title>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/philodendron</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-05-15</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584905973395-4QC5CX07ASLAGMHNHG6H/heartleaf.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Hederaceum “Heartleaf Philodendron”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I have two of these delightful plants, and I wish I had room for a thousand more. This was my first true plant love many years ago, and it remains one of my favorite plants to this day. This plant sits directly in an Eastern facing window, and it grows steadily. I check it every 7-10 days to see if it needs water, and I water accordingly. It’s generally quite an easygoing and flexible plant, and beautiful, too! It can climb or trail. It would likely be climbing in its native Carribean and Central American habitat. It’s known as one of the most common houseplants, and for good reason. It’s gorgeous and its needs are easy to meet with a little bit of time and care. It can handle low to moderate light, and isn’t fussy about humidity. If you pamper it with proper fertilizing and the occasional misting, it will keep gracing you with its gorgeous, laid-back self.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584902633626-XEQV16YRR8BYBID82B7W/lemonlimeheart.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Hederaceum “Lemon Lime Heartleaf Philodendron”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Care for this plant is not unlike the green heartleaf Philodendron.This Philodendron lives happily in a corner between Eastern and Northern facing windows. It’s a fairly speedy grower, with new growth often emerging in beautiful pinkish-orange shades, then yellowish, and finally into a lime green. This, obviously, is where it gets the name “Lemon Lime.” It can do with lower light, but it will be content and productive with nice and steady lighting. This is why I find that it appreciates the consistency of a Northern facing window. As for water, I watch this one carefully as I have it in a pot without drainage. I water it every 7-10 days, depending on the season.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584903663377-25SFJQ1AGJXKHLN94FD7/Bloodymary.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Bloody Mary”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I purchased this plant as “Philodendron Bloody Mary Cultivar, “ although I have seen it sold under other names. It has elongated, heart-shaped leaves and blood-red petioles. Leaves emerge deep red and mature to green. It is a vining plant, although mine has not been trained onto a coir pole yet. It can have a lovely draping habit, and I’m enjoying it presently until I get to making a new pole. I keep this plant in lower light than I had planned, but it seems so content that I hesitate to move it. It currently sits about 8 feet back from an eastern window and 4-5 feet from a Northern facing French door. I test with a moisture meter before watering this plant. I look for the meter to be in the 1-3 or “dry” range before watering. I have found that the leaf points will turn a splotchy yellowish shade when kept too moist. Though I use a terra-cotta pot and nice Aroid soil, I believe that the lower light conditions reduce this plant’s need for frequent watering. I was certain when potting this plant that the terra-cotta was exactly the same size as the nursery pot to prevent soggy conditions after a thorough watering. It has never been picky about humidity, either. This is a plant that has been very comfortable in regular household conditions.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584904983189-VMXDR280GH69GOUI53TX/Burlemarx.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Burle Marx”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Brazilian plant got its name from, of course, Burle Marx who had a prolific career as a landscape architect. He played a major role in bringing aroids into cultivation. It’s known to spread across an area quickly in the wild, covering large areas of ground. As you can see from the photo, roots reach out from the plant, grabbing at the ground or any other available surroundings and anchor the plant so it can continue moving as it pleases. This plant lives approximately 2 feet away from a Western facing window on the second floor of my home. It gets consistent light through the window, and about 3 feet above is a single grow light. This plant seems to love these conditions. It isn’t sassy about water needs, either. I have never found this plant to pout or wilt when it needs water. I tend to water this plant whenever I water the other Aroids in the same area, just for good measure. I know it can go longer, but it also doesn’t mind the water when it can get it. I do believe, however, that less established plants prefer more frequent watering than a more established plant. It is quite resilient, I’ve found, with one exception. It does not appreciate being exposed to cold temperatures.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584904284088-4OC6W11STYRE7XFELMZW/Diningcongo.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Rojo Congo”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant was a bit of a project, and we’re not quite out of the woods yet. I found it for under $10 on the “dead rack” at a big box store, flopped over on one side with a couple of battered leaves. I saw a spark of hope in it, though, and thus far it’s proving that it has the will to live. It has put out about six healthy leaves in the year I’ve had it, and it has another on the way. This is another plant that surprised me with it’s preference for lower light. I originally placed it in a nice sunny, Eastern window and waited for it to take off. It didn’t feel right, however, in that spot and I decided to put it next to a dim lamp in the dining room until I figured out a better spot for it. To my surprise, it quickly began popping out new leaves and has been ever since. It sits very close to Northern facing French doors, and it has it’s trusty lamp nearby. I wouldn’t normally seek out these precise conditions for this plant, but this seems to be the space this plant chose! As for water, I check this plant once a week for dryness and typically end up giving it a small drink. I never soak this plant or either of my other Congos through the drainage hole. I have found that smaller amounts of water on a more frequent basis are the way to go with this plant in my particular conditions. Hybrid Philodendron “Rojo Congo” is a self-heading plant, so it won’t form vines climb, and it does tend to be larger than some smaller hybrids like “Moonlight,” or “McColley’s Finale.”</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584909084227-HCV14TSSILG0G9VUKL2X/lemonlimeupright.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Domesticum “Lemon Lime Upright”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lemon Lime Upright is a beautiful, climbing Philodendron with long, oval-shaped leaves. I keep this plant in a cluster of other Aroids near a Western facing window. It also gets minimal light from a grow lamp that I have mounted on the wall above. Some like to let this plant hang, but I have found that the vines aren’t as pliable as the Heartleaf variety of Philodendron and therefore the plant seems more comfortable climbing-at least in my environment. Mine tends to grow bushy first, then send up a vine. I am very careful not to overwater this plant. I think under normal circumstances, this plant would appreciate watering on a basis that’s similar to the other Philodendrons, but I have two plants and a Coir pole in this pot, and I don’t like to risk overwatering with everything going on in there.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584909931150-ORD0SMFNK42B8UXIMJTU/littlehope.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Bipinnatifidum “Little Hope”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This cute little plant doesn’t get much bigger than a 6-8 inch pot can accommodate. I have found that this plant likes to live in close quarters, so keep it potbound if you can. It’s a great choice when you need a plant that’s unlikely to outgrow it’s spot quickly. I grow this plant in a North facing bay window in my kitchen. It gets consistent light, and even some heat and humidity from the nearby cooktop. It took a while to find a good watering cadence with this plant, but now that it’s more established, I’ve found that it’s more accepting of water when it comes rather than its previous finicky way. As with most of my plants, I check this plant weekly for water, but I find that it does best when I hold out a bit longer between waterings. I look for a 1-3 on the moisture meter for this plant to be happy in my environment. This plant isn’t patented, it really is a little Hope, as in Philodendron Hope. It’s a naturally occurring mutation that causes this plant to remain smaller. To further confuse matters, Philodendron Bipinnatifidum (AKA “hope” AKA “Selloum” AKA “Tree Philodendron”) was recently reclassified in 2018 as a Thaumatophyllum along with other former members of the Meconostigma subclassification of Philodendron. I know there has been much debate about the reclassification, and I’m not entirely sure where the debate stands at this time.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584910603420-0NMON86F8I61VASGGPRE/littlephil.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Little Phil”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was my original “low light” Philodendron, and by that I mean that it was the first Philodendron that I intentionally put in lower light. When I purchased this plant, it came with a sticker that said, “Low light, let dry fully between watering.” I’ve followed those directions and this plant has been happy and thriving. It lives in conditions very similar to my “Rojo Congo,” near a Northern facing French door, and it lives near a lamp with a low output LED bulb. It is not a grow light. This plant is content and continues to put out more lovely, long pointed leaves. “Little Phil” is a trademarked name given to this dwarf Philodendron. It’s a tough plant, in my experience.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584911025459-E333WVS5H3ZDFNW49LQV/micansbig.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Hederaceum “Micans”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was a true wishlist plant for me. The leaves are velvety with a gorgeous iridescent look. Depending on the angle, it can look pinkish, greenish, orangish, and even some blueish shades. For as high maintenance as this plant looks, it’s remarkably laid back for me. It takes light and water when it can get it, and keeps on growing as if it’s loving life. I have two of these plants, the one shown here, and a smaller but slightly longer plant that I keep in brighter light. I do notice that the plant getting more light grows more quickly…no surprise there, but both plants have similar habits. Both of my plants trail out of their pots, but like any Philodendron Hederaceum, they can and will climb and you’re likely to get larger leaves from your plant if it’s climbing. They receive water when the soil is dry, which is closer to weekly for the smaller plant and closer to every 10-12 days for the plant here. Neither pot has a drainage hole, so I try to be contentious of overwatering either of these plants.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584911635775-TY5Y462LJSNB7CFW00UK/Moonlightclose.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Moonlight”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This self-heading (non-vining) Philodendron McColley hybrid is eye-catching. I’ve found it to be accepting of most low to medium light conditions in my home. I keep this plant in the dining room, several feet back from a sunny Eastern facing window and a couple of feet away from North facing French doors. This is another plant that I do not like to over pot. It can become very full, with neon green leaves that sprout out from the middle of the plant and reach a darker shades green as they harden off with age. I monitor the soil weekly on this plant and usually end up watering it every 7-10, depending on the season.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584917681655-YLG3DRZUNLUJCUM141ME/redemerald.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Erubescens “Red Emerald”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was another wish list plant for me, and another plant that has been really versatile and laid-back. “Red Emerald” is not a trade name, and I’ve often seen this plant referred to as “Blushing Philodendron.” I don’t worry so much about the name as I do about the proper care. It climbs, and FAST. This plant puts out a new leaf, and a few days later I’m seeing a new leaf begin to emerge. In it’s native Columbia, it can climb 15 + feet up the side of a tree. This plant lives in an East facing window, however, it rarely gets any direct sun despite its close proximity to the window. It gets very consistent, bright indirect light all day long. There are no curtains to dim the light. This plant has only ever lived in this East window, unlike many of my other plants who bounce around a few times before they settle into a final home. I really believe that Philodendrons love East windows in my zone and a few other zones that I’ve observed. This plant is no exception. I water on an occasional basis because this pot does not have drainage and it houses two plants and one coir pole. I try to be careful not to overwater in those circumstances.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587081416642-CXNVW54ASHX3AA7MFQL8/philodendronverrucosum.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Verrucosum</image:title>
      <image:caption>This climbing Philodendron of Ecuadorian origin has thin, velvety leaves with a striking pattern. I was a little afraid of it at first because it looks very fussy. I haven’t found that to be the case, at least not yet. I keep this plant in an Eastern facing window where it receives bright light but no direct sunlight. It lives under a large Monstera Deliciosa that blocks out any direct light coming through the windows. I keep this plant in close proximity to a humidifier because it is known to appreciate (if not require) more humidity than most household Philodendrons. So far, this system seems to be working well for the plant. It is putting out new leaves, and I’ve noticed that the hairy stems look a bit more perky with the humidifier. I check this plant twice weekly and water when the plant is dry. Due to the smaller size of the terra-cotta pot, plus the chunkier Aroid soil does dry out faster than say, a plastic pot filled with a heavier soil. I prefer the terra-cotta and fast draining soil for this plant, though, because it was a difficult to find plant and I like the extra control I have when it comes to overwatering. I have read that there are several varieties of this plant on the market with different areas of origin and differing home altitudes. Some do not have the “hairy” stems and some do not have the deep red patterns on the leaves. I chose this Ecuadorian variety because I felt I had the best chance of meeting it’s needs.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584999085421-RKAMTFA262HFG1MVK4FC/Philtahiti.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Tahiti”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This has been such a rewarding plant. I came upon it by accident, which is to say I didn't really have it on any “wish lists” when I found it. But I’m so glad I did find it. The leaves are so interesting and it really doesn’t ask for much. “Tahiti” is of unknown origin, at least to me. It’s a vining plant that will eventually require a moss pole to climb. Currently, it grows in my North facing bay window where the light isn’t strong, but it’s constant. It’s still in the nursery pot, from which I removed the plastic hanger so I could put it inside a basket. When I water this plant, I water it until the water comes through the drainage hole and I soak the foliage as well. It appreciates a more thorough watering with less frequency in my conditions. This plant was propagated with many stems inside the pot, so it is very full inside. I expect the care needs will change if I decide to change the pot or potting medium. Due to its location near the ceiling, it does seem to appreciate the occasional light coming from the LED bulbs in the ceiling.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584920502058-FBPN2FTZD4ELL23NOL3P/Glory2.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Gloriosum</image:title>
      <image:caption>In it’s natural Columbian habitat, velvety Philodendron Gloriousum creeps vertically along the ground, eventually creating a hedge-like shape. The vine, known as a stolon, needs to be on top of the soil to most naturally recreate the way this plant would grow in the wild. The roots will drop down into the soil from the stolon, though you might need to stake the plant for stability. Burying the stolon or the growth point could easily result in rot. I know that eventually this plant will need either a longer, more shallow pot, or to be trimmed regularly as it grows. For the time being, this plant is living along with many other Aroids in my Western window where it receives medium light, plus a supplementary grow light mounted on the wall above it. The light doesn’t offer enough light that it could stand alone, but I do like that it’s supportive of the naturally occurring light. This is a plant that does not appreciate overwatering. The emphatic advice I was given by the grower was do not overwater. I’m keeping in mind that she is an outdoor grower and my conditions are quite different. I am currently watering weekly, as that is what my particular conditions require, but I do expect to water this plant more in the summer and less in the winter. In my experience, indoors this plant is a slow and quite sensitive grower. The sensitivity is particularly in relation to temperature and humidity. It enjoys temperatures over 60 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity as high as you can get it within the home. I keep this plant within close proximity to a humidifier.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584999216775-W8QZ9K0NU3TEXC8E3GVW/philblackcardinaltop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Black Cardinal”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This self-heading Philodendron was originally a plant I sought out because I had hoped, in vain, that it would actually have black leaves. Thus far, I’ve seen a deep purplish green as well as emerald green on the older leaves and reddish color on the newer leaves. I still find it beautiful, of course! I keep this plant about two feet from a west window. It has grown rapidly in this spot and I wont’t move it until it outgrows the current location. As for watering, I check for dryness on a regular basis as I do with a lot of my 4” or smaller pots and I water it weekly. “Black Cardinal” is a McColley hybrid, hybridized in Florida.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584999635238-6HBS9F0C8F5VG1NM61IU/Philbrandtianumleaf.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Brandtianum</image:title>
      <image:caption>Philodendron Brandtianum is a versatile plant. In it’s natural South American environment, it can grow…nearly anywhere. This plant can grow as an epiphyte, rooting itself high in a tree and clinging as it climbs up into the canopy, or it can originate as a terrestrial and creep along until it finds something to climb in search of more light. Either way, vines are the common denominator. This plant does appreciate humidity, but I haven’t found it to be excessively demanding about it. I keep it clustered with many other plants in my West facing plant nursery cart where it has access to humidity every day. It isn’t demanding about water, but it’ll let you know if you’ve gone too long between waterings by curling its leaves. I don’t let it get to this point, as I’d rather not stress the plant unnecessarily. I check it weekly and usually end up finding that it’s in need of water in that timeframe. It hasn’t been an especially fast grower for me, but I’m hoping that’ll change. The leaves can reach 6-7 inches long, but are unlikely to do so indoors, especially if it isn’t climbing.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584999833590-Y004XPSW3OK4FBSW2GW5/Philbrasil.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Hederaceum “Brasil”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I treat this Brasil much the same as my green and lemon lime heart-leaf Philodendrons. It isn’t needy, and it thrives in many different spots in my home (I have four). The foliage is so striking, it never fails to impress. Depending on the size and potting environment of each plant, I go from 5-10 days between waterings. The plant will give a little droop to let me know it’s time for water if I’ve missed in my regular rounds. This plant lives from very low light to medium light within my home. The smallest plant, about 3 years old, lives in very low light in the bathroom, whereas another hangs directly in an East window. A third lives in a deep corner without much natural light. And the final plant lives on a top shelf in the kitchen where it receives a combination of natural and LED lighting. All four show steady growth with care and attention to the differences their specific homes might require. This is a great plant for those just learning plant care, and also a great choice for experienced growers.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587082258639-RV2CHPDSI4DWUCEP84JI/philmccolleysfinale1.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “McColley’s Finale”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This self-heading philodendron was hybridized by, no surprise, McColley who is also credited with popular hybrids like P. “Moonlight” and P. “Prince of Orange.” They can be rapid growers and develop a wide and dense display of various colored leaves. The newest leaves emerge bright red and deepen into an emerald green as they age. I’ve had my share of trouble with this plant and it’s close relation, “Prince of Orange.” I have learned that many Philodendrons are very versatile when it comes to potting and soil, but this one likes to remain tight in it’s pot with a soil that dries evenly. A problem I was having initially, which I believe we’ve now sorted out, was that the soil was remaining damp in the lower 1/3 of the pot, and thus the plant wasn’t drying evenly. In a rare turn, I downsized this pot and added more chunky fir bark to the mix so that oxygen could reach the roots more freely. This seemed to alieviate any issues, and the plant began to put out new leaves again. This plant lives in the basement underground surrounded by grow lights. It gets a weekly check for watering, and the needs remain fairly consistent.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588817124600-A20RB6MM0C5HQN9GQJ0P/Philgreencongo11.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron “Green Congo”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant is treated much the same as “Rojo Congo, “ except I purchased it at a much larger size than the “Rojos.” This plant is a self-heading variety, and it has quite a spread. The whole plant is nearly four feet wide, maybe more. I have seen them for sale in the nurseries with the leaves all pointing upward and the stems close together as if they’re almost touching. In my experience, they do spread out a bit more once they get comfortable. This plant lives with East and South facing windows. It can’t get enough indirect light. It’s always wanting more, and it puts out more of its especially thick, rigid leaves frequently. A very surprising contrast to the “Rojo Congo,” which doesn’t mind low light but still puts out many leaves. I don’t often soak the soil when I water this plant. It requires a larger pot to balance it’s size, and I’m careful not to drown the roots by allowing all that soil to sit soaking for too long. I use smaller waterings, but more frequently for this plant.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588817636276-KYJTXODVPRSCO4IML96R/philpastazanumtop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>philodendron - Philodendron Pastazanum</image:title>
      <image:caption>Like Philodendron Gloriosum, P. Pastazanum also creeps horizontally along the surface of the soil via stolon as it grows. It does not like to have the stolon or growing tip buried under the soil. It likes a lot of light and prefers humidity as well. I was a little afraid of this plant, but I’ve found it to be very agreeable and would highly recommend it. It lives in a West window with supplementary grow lights and a humidifier. That sounds fussy, but it’s really one of those plants that doesn’t give me a bit of trouble. It’s striking and easygoing. A great combination. This spring I gave it a top dressing of worm castings and I water it with a water soluble fertilizer every other watering. This plant is a species plant from Columbia, but can occasionally be mistaken or incorrectly sold as Philodendron McDowell (P. Pastazanum X P. Gloriousum) due to their resemblance.</image:caption>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/planttable</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-06-01</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584927515062-F714F5FSTN28LOMRIKF1/benchmaterials.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Plant Table - First.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I’m starting with necessary materials to make a bench measuring 26” high and 36” long. I will be saving another board at 44” long to make another bench at a later time. -Drill -Drill bit -Lacquer -Bench Legs -Six Screws (came with bench legs) -Electric Sander and sandpaper -2x12x8 ft. board that I had pre-cut to my specifications at Home Depot.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584928064208-Q8X4GDW0DW2SAIW1BW86/DRbenchsander.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Plant Table - Next.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I moved my board and sander outside. I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand both sides of the wood. I likely would have purchased varying grits of sandpaper had I remembered. I sanded until the board felt smooth on all surfaces and did not catch the dry cloth that I used to dust away debris. I was also careful to sand down the corners of the wood so they have a softer, rounded edge.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584928506809-FLHNBR0UKQD4EW8FELY9/DRbenchlacquer.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Plant Table - Then.</image:title>
      <image:caption>After ensuring that all the dust and debris were cleaned from the wood, I began with the first of three coats of lacquer. I chose this product because it dries quickly and does not require sanding between coats. I allowed at least 30 minutes of dry time between coats, as instructed on the label. After three coats on both sides as well as the ends, I allowed the board to sit until fully dry.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584928719277-EJ3I6E251D0DJB249UOY/DRbenchdrill.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Plant Table - Finally.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I located the side with imperfections as the drilling site for the legs. The legs I chose attach from underneath, so only the top with the nicer finish will be apparent. I chose the positions I wanted for the legs and then drilled all three screws into the wood, starting with the middle screw of each leg so I could adjust as needed.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Plant Table - The End.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Just add plants!</image:caption>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/syngonium</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-07-15</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594849542141-S051E72SMDKJT9I0DLL4/SyngoniumPinkAllusion.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594850170125-ZNRJ1EA5J5RHOS6SW4CH/IMG_1859.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium</image:title>
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      <image:title>syngonium</image:title>
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      <image:title>syngonium</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584923393822-TYF3X09YY566FN05HX7U/Pinksyngkit.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum “Pink Allusion”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This massive plant on sale for about $6, but the downside was that it came without any identification. Originally, “Syngonium Pink,” seemed like the right name, but that name applies, presumably, to the plants with completely pink leaves that do not change color across their lifespan. The present-day closet match is “Pink Allusion.” Regardless of the name, this plant is amazing. Truly, its only weakness is being too close to the heating and cooling vents. Otherwise, it’s very flexible when it comes to its placement and watering timeframe. In the cooler months, it lives in an area where it receives light from an eastern facing window. In the summer, it’s outside. This plant appreciates a thorough misting every once a while. When it comes to watering, less is more. Most Syngonium will wilt when they’re dehydrated. The goal, of course, is to water them right before it comes to that. This plant doesn’t get any special humidity and it’s fertilized monthly in the growing season.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588822685732-F2A0ZDE3ZEC4DM4F2SUK/syngoniumalbo.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum Albo-Variegatum</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant will grow from low to moderate light without protesting much. The key is to give it enough light to sustain the beautiful variegation. Maintaining variegation is big in the houseplant community, and some will cut any growth from the plant that is pure green to ensure a variegated plant. This is the prerogative of whomever is owning and caring for the plant. These can be expensive plants solely due to the variegation, and it’s understandable to maintain that investment. They do appreciate humidity, but don’t keep them moist at all times. They do a bit better when they’re allowed some time for the soil to dry between watering. Syngonium literally grow as weeds in southern areas of the U.S. These are plants that can become invasive, so growth isn’t usually a problem with Syngonium. Fertilizer can be used sparingly or in the event of nutrient deficiencies, but looking at soil and duration since the last repot can be helpful if growth has stalled.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584923480871-8TZ96C9WVVFITFFBF0JX/Syngoniummariatop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum “Maria Allusion”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is an easy plant to come across. It’s easily found in many of the big box stores, and the prices are really reasonable. Considering how low maintenance this plant is, it’s totally worth it. The foliage very different is many other plants both in color and shape. For a few bucks, it can really be a standout in a sea of green. As for water, water it through the drainage hole when the soil is dry to the touch at a depth of about 1-2 inches. Underwater rather than overwater these plants. They’re good at wilting or getting crisp if they’re trying to tell you something about watering. They’ll wilt completely when they’re in need of water, which is always a major indicator that it’s time. The key is to find the right cadence with Syngonum. They can get root rot or mushy stems if they’re over watered, but they are such vigorous growers that plucking a crisp leaf here and there won’t damage the plant. Obviously, that is something to avoid, but Syngonium are forgiving.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1584924803992-64QLFCIC2P8TUP5SW920/Syngoniumgreen.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum “White Butterfly”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is another Syngonium that came without identification. It took a while to find the right spot for this plant, but it finally found it’s home in the basement under a ceiling grow light. The other locations didn’t seem quite right for this plant. The bathroom floor allowed too much air from the heating and cooling vent, and these plants do not survive well under those conditions. The upstairs hallway wasn’t quite enough light. In the basement, temperatures are generally cooler all year round, but there is no draft and no direct circulation of air hitting the plant. Also, the light is very consistent and this plant responds very well to it. As with all of the plants in the basement underground, this plant is on a weekly schedule that is more consistent than the plants above ground. It is watered once a week, usually the same day of the week but sometimes my schedule doesn’t allow for that. With the conditions being the same every day, I find that the plants’ need for water is generally more predictable. Summer 2020 will be the first warm season for these plants, so we’ll see what adjustments are made to the care. Summer 2020 Update: The watering schedule has remained the same.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587081205229-3SR3XGL6W7EDSTRRNSK1/syngoniumholly.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum “Holly”</image:title>
      <image:caption>“Holly” was $1 on the clearance rack of a big box store in Indiana. There was absolutely nothing wrong with her. The white foliage is fun and different, and not difficult to maintain at all. Currently, “Holly” in the bathroom with the Begonias, although we will see if she stays there in the long-term. She had two homes prior to that, just proving the versatility of this plant. Sometimes it takes time. The light “Holly” receives is on the lower end, and she is watered often due to her small pot size and well draining soil. Her room has high humidity from both the shower and the humidifier that is in the bathroom for supplementary humidity whenever there is not a shower in progress.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587081259193-EGQ5FGY6OTW5TJMGW9UW/syngoniumberryallusiontop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>syngonium - Syngonium Podophyllum “Berry Allusion”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant lives in a spot that most would’ve considered incapable of sustaining a plant prior to meeting “Berry Allusion.” She has been thriving in a recessed area of the bathroom that receives very low light. These plants can live comfortably in lower light conditions, and I can attest to that personally now. She doesn't require water as frequently as the Rex Begonias with whom she shares this home. “Berry Allusion” is in a pot without drainage, so she tends to require watering less frequently despite the season. On average, about 7-9 days between waterings. For fertilizer, a couple of times a month is sufficient.</image:caption>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/monstera</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-07-15</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594846219815-W4XMNI7MW69BXOJC3YNF/monsteraperutop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594846287709-90ZZY1WDXPZWURK5OXME/sunroomwestshelf.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594846480340-PTZI4LCDUDVIL71W24O6/IMG_0504.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594846479315-NMFQKL4UL66051BEQRR8/IMG_4858.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera</image:title>
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      <image:title>Monstera</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587084602892-D39J8KNI8OC23EVNEWHH/Monsterasiltepecana.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera - Monstera Siltepecana.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is a very juvenile Siltepecana. As the plant grows, it will require a coir pole to climb. As it climbs, the leaves will get larger and larger until they begin to get the very monstera-esque appearance that we all know and love- fenestrations and “holes.” This baby is currently living on my plant cart a short distance away from a west window with a supplementary grow light. The light is gentle, which suits this plant well. There’s a humidifier serving the area and light air movement from the ceiling fan. All of these factors combine to create really nice conditions for a young plant. Due to the smaller terra-cotta pot with a chunky soil, this plant needs to be checked more frequently for dryness.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587087575066-LQKB5I6CK2OMJDW0RVFH/MonsteraAdonsoniiWL.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera - Monstera Adansonii “Swiss Cheese Vine.”</image:title>
      <image:caption>There’s a lot of talk about the “wide leaf” and “narrow leaf” forms of this plant. I do have both plants and I treat them the same. Both like humidity and bright light. This larger, totem-bound plant lives next to an east window and a northern facing sliding glass door where it also has a humidifier. The smaller “narrow leaf” plant lives on a shelf where it receives indirect light from both a south and an east window. This plant doesn’t have supplementary humidity, but it gets an occasional misting. A third plant, the “Trending Tropicals” Adansonii that was the subject of a blog post or two, has since been potted in with the large Adansonii totem. A final and new plant, a 6-7 ft. long “wide”leaf” Adansonii lives on a high shelf receiving exposure from East, north and west windows, All of the plants grow quickly when they’re happy. They can be super finicky plants when it comes to water. The biggest issue is to be careful and consistent. They’ve been known to throw yellow or brown leaves if the watering schedule isn’t just right for them. A moisture meter helps, look for the gauge to read around 2-3 before watering. On the dry side, but not bone dry. This does seem to help with leaf yellowing and the plants are happier. Take care to mist these plants whenever possible as they seem to be a plant that enjoys getting its leaves wet regularly. Be aware: misting will not ever raise the humidity levels inside the home - so luckily that’s not the goal. What it will do is refresh the leaves. In their natural environment, these plants would have water on their leaves off and on throughout the day. Monstera Adansonii has more papery, rough leaves (on a micro level) than say, the glossy feel of Monstera Delicious or Peru. For that reason, I find that Adansonii (and Siltepecana, who has a similar feeling to the leaves) are more sensitive to and appreciative of humidity and moisture on the leaves. Some Tips: This is not a plant that likes to be over-potted. Try a terra-cotta pot a size up from the nursery pot if it’s necessary to repot. If it isn’t necessary, a cache pot will spruce things up for you in the mean time. Give your misting hand a workout, nit to raise humidity but to give the leaves a boost. Trust me, they like getting wet. This is a light feeder, but it does like the occasional fertilizer. Once a month is good when it’s in active growth. With this plant, it all boils down to water and humidity.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1587084717837-XFHCBW9CBS9SHKCWYV0Q/Monsteraperuright.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera - Monstera Karstenianum “Peru.”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant is a climber by nature, and will appreciate a coir pole to climb. “Peru” prefers a chunky mixture to allow water to drain freely and oxygen into the root area although, this isn’t a picky plant. Don’t over-pot, don’t overwater, give it medium light and it’ll love you. Overwatering on this plant can lead to yellowing leaves, although yellowing can also happen during transitional periods for “Peru.” Humidity is alway a plus. For a point of reference, this plant lives 3-4 feet away from a west window and also has a grow light a few feet above where it sits. There is a humidifier within a couple of feet, and it receives water every 7-10-ish days during the growing season. About one watering per month includes a fertilizer. “Peru” can grow fast, but you’ll only get those big gorgeous leaves when it’s climbing. The plant knows it’s secure and stable when it digs in, and it’ll be happiest with that security.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588796106700-IC8F4JTVZIRPW9D88L7J/monsteradeliciosa.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Monstera - Monstera Deliciosa.</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plant that has inspired thousands of plant lovers to become plant owners. It’s not the plant to buy if you want nice and tidy. In nature, this plant is an epiphyte. It grows in tree crotches and crevices, sending out adventitious roots to help it stabilize as it climbs higher into the tree canopy. It’s important not to cut off these roots on an indoor plant, as they gather moisture in the form of humidity from the air. As my plant has grown to a larger size, I’ve oddly noticed that I water it less. It is more established, though not yet mature enough to develop fenestration in the leaves. It lives and has always lived in an East window. It gets direct morning sun and loves it. It contributes to the little ecosystem in my home by providing dappled sunlight through its many leaves to several other Aroids that live under its canopy. Although this plant does have a humidifier, Monstera Deliciosa can deal with normal household humidity. A humidifier will certainly help humans and plants alike, though.</image:caption>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/hangers</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-08-09</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588973689395-IHNHAS4GYHRDU6WYENXA/hangrings.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>hangers - Pot Holders.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I haven’t a clue what brand these are or if they have a webpage. I purchased them at a nursery called Nature’s Corner in Ohio for $5-10 depending on the size. I have seen similar pot holders at Lowe’s, but the design is not as much to my liking. I enjoy the simplicity of these holders, and the fact that you can hang the loop above or below the pot. Hanging with the screws below the loop hides the pot almost completely, and the pot looks as if it’s floating on the wall.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588973838832-NZAXQ0ZHR7OOLBVPWB3D/Codenanthe.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>hangers - Opalhouse Macrame.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I got these at target. I have a basic white one and a brown one. Although I’m not sure if they still carry these exact hangers, they usually have something very similar. I got them on clearance, actually. The original price was $13, but I paid less than half of that price. I noticed that target continued to carry them despite them being on clearance at one or more stores, so there’s a possibility that they’re still selling them.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588973739607-EXJQMSKHRC4WRH86AAL2/hand.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>hangers - Hand Hook.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I purchased these at Urbanoutfitters.com. At $10, I thought they were really affordable and I like how they match my terra-cotta pots. I don’t put much weight on them, just to be safe. I keep these for smaller hanging plants. I think they’re fun as an unexpected detail.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588973903209-891IAVDNFJHFWNE2S4VQ/dogtail.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>hangers - Mkono Macrame.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I buy these from the Mkono store on Amazon. I have purchased them in several varieties and I love them all. They have a great price point, which varies by style, and they’re made of durable cotton. You can check out one of my favorite styles here.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1588974076094-EFWXRTPB1MLETFFGCP75/FrontBA.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>hangers - Primitive Planters.</image:title>
      <image:caption>These are my absolute favorite! I love the simplicity. There is not a tassel under the hanger, which I prefer. I also like how these are available in many different colors. They’re hard to come by, unfortunately. I purchase my neutral shades on Amazon, and for some of the brighter colors, I have to just cross my fingers and hope to find them in a local nursery. I first found some on clearance at English’s in Plymouth, MI. After I bought out their stock of this style, I moved on to Lucas Nursery, also in Plymouth, MI, where I was able to find a much larger selection with more colors. This style is a little harder to find, but I’m linking to it below if you’re interested, as well as the other Primitive Planters style that I purchase in mass quantity. Check here. And here.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/eriostemma</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-07-30</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589173772132-XGE47P574WJJJHZTAQKH/6298354B-015A-4D56-B11C-62C28DA3D9FA.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Coronaria.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This terrestrial grower is originally found in the lowland mangrove swamps of Malaysia according to tropical.theferns.info. I was able to find some great information there about this plant, especially regarding its need for humidity. Humidity isn’t something I hear often when researching Eriostemma, perhaps because so many growers keep them outdoors where it’s left to Mother Nature. This plant is often shown with flowers in pink, white, magenta or peach, although there is some question whether these are actually different plants or if different conditions and levels of light produce different colors in the flower. The flowers of any color can be spotted. Coronaria is said to be a slower growing Eriostemma, but this hasn’t been my experience. In a south window, it has developed a new vine and growth on the main vine has been fast. It loves to coil and twist, which isn’t the tendency of all Eriostemma that I grow. Cononaria needs to be shielded from direct sunlight. It would do better in bright indirect light and prefers to be kept warm. Several of my Epiphytic Hoya LOVE a drafty east or west windows in the winter months. This is not the case with Coronaria or any other Eriostemma in my experience. Though the epiphytic Hoya thrive in that condition, it would be detrimental with Coronaria. The goal would be to maintain consistent temperatures year round.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589318878416-A1MV8P118G2903EGF8DJ/hoyaLauterbachii.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Lauterbachii.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was my first Eriostemma and it inspired my love for the group as a whole. It has densely fuzzy leaves on sturdy vines. I know it’ll take ages for this plant to reach maturity, but I was so drawn to the unique vine, the interesting texture of the leaves, and the endearing fuzz that covers leaf and vine of Lauterbachii. Hailing from Eastern Papua New Guinea, this plant can produce bundles of flowers that span 8 inches across with individual flowers up to 3 inches wide. It’s not known for flowering indoors. Regardless, these flowers are the largest found in the species. The vines are more sturdy than some other Eriostemma and they show less tendency to vine and climb. Coronaria, for example, reaches over to the trellises of other Eriostemma and coils around them. Lauterbachii maintains a heavy and rigid vine, so far at least. Some of the early advice I received on this plant was that it loves sun and it likes to dry out between watering. I have found this advice to be true, and my plant has grown by following that formula. The growth rate in the summer months is medium, with little growth happening in the cool months.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589171565555-NECSF7HHC7PYRD02QHLB/5700AB21-8096-4BF7-BB85-65990EBB6D0B.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Monette Coronaria X Lauterbachii</image:title>
      <image:caption>This tiny Monette is an Ed Gilding hybrid. I purchased it because it’s the same cross as another of Ed Gilding’s hybrids, Margaret, which is a plant I covet. I hope to one day locate Margaret, but in the mean time, I’m happy to have Monette. Due to the Lauterbachii parentage, this plant develops large flowers. I don’t necessarily expect to see them as an indoor grower, but know that it has the capability of some very Lauterbachii-esque flowers under the right conditions. Monette likes full sun, and my experience has been that it likes water, too. Not quite as much as Ruthie, but close. It seems happy with the arrangement it has in my South window. This plant likes to vine and twist like its parent Coronaria. It doesn’t have the rigidity of Lauterbachii.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589172439490-52WSY5SFRP00S7CUK4RW/A30CA48D-8417-42F6-A36A-FD8EAC6C40D2.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Unknown!</image:title>
      <image:caption>I purchased this unknown Eriostemma because I love a mystery. The seller was able to provide photos of the mother plant that looks a lot like a Coronaria with reddish burgundy star shaped flowers, but couldn’t say conclusively that the plant has an ID. The leaves are much smaller than my Coronaria, though the shape is similar and they have a very light fuzz. Where it differs from Coronaria is in its rate of growth. This one grows FAST. I went away for a couple of days and when I returned, it had two new leaves. I’m happy to keep this plant and watch it grow, though I know I might not ever know who it truly is. Update: Now that I’ve had a chance to see new leaves, vines, fuzz and on this plant and Coronaria as well as all of my other Eriostemma, my guess is that this plant too is Coronaria.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589170229757-7GSNHXKF1UBGNCJSBEKV/B8E6AFB8-B1F5-4BC4-8429-CC2B18D69090.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Ruthie MM X Ariadna</image:title>
      <image:caption>This hybrid is completely devoid of any fuzz on the leaves or vine. The leaves have a smooth, almost leathery feel. They’re thick, and though they appear as though they can hold quite a bit of water for the plant, Ruthie likes more water than the average Eriostemma. I have found that I can’t rely on the wrinkling of the leaves as an indicator that Ruthie needs water. The thick leathery leaves don’t wrinkle or soften as readily, and therefore I try to be extra careful to give Ruthie enough water. One of the two plants lost a growing tip in shipping, but the other is still growing strong, and the plant grows steadily. She may be small, but she was even smaller when I got her. Ruthie seems to take well to the light of the South-facing window, so I can tell she’ll be soaking up a lot of light and water as she matures. I suggest rooting Ruthie cuttings in soil. After my experiment with cuttings from rare-hoyas.com, I wouldn’t hesitate to root in soil over water or gel beads.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589170832274-DNU0QOXELSIOXQM3ECZQ/28C9917C-B2B4-4801-BDF6-7E7851CE0DB3.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Ciliata “Black Hoya”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ciliata gets the name “Black Hoya” from the dark purple, almost black star shaped flowers it (hopefully) produces. A native to the Southern Philippines, Ciliata has fuzzy leaves and loves warmth. When grown indoors, this Eriostemma would prefer bright indirect light, no direct sunlight. I still grow this plant in my South window, but it’s out of the reach of direct sunlight. The leaves wrinkle when the plant needs water, and due to the pot and soil choices I’ve made, it ends up needing water more than I originally expected. It’s really helpful when the plant can show that it needs water. It takes a lot of the pressure away from the fear of overwatering. Ciliata and Lauterbachii are the easiest to read when they need water. It could be coincidental, but they’re also the two fuzziest Eriostemma that I have. Something about the texture of the leaves makes it very apparent that they’ve wrinkled and almost deflated when it’s time for watering. Ciliata might be the fastest growing Eriostemma I have. I can almost see the growth happening. As far as Eriostemma go, this one is totally accepting of household conditions.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589168339248-JWO7LH1O3F7WOXLHL2L9/80562671-8E0B-4BF8-9F75-3CF19ADFD7E9.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Ariadna</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ariadna has adjusted well to my indoor environment. Though it did suffer in shipping, I’ve since found it to be a sturdy plant. This was the hardest Eriostemma to locate, so if you see one, get it. My plant is the first and only Ariadna that I was able to find at all. Native to Indonesia and the Solomon Islands, this plant is not as fuzzy as other Eriostemma. It seems to be a rapid grower and although the growing point of the stem was fractured, it’s continued to grow at a 90 degree angle, half attached to the rest of the plant. The leaves on this plant aren’t as uniformly shaped as Lauterbachii or Ciliata, but they still have the look of an Eriostemma. I’m looking forward to seeing how the plant matures. Update: That broken tip just keeps on growing. It has several inches of growth and new leaves.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589169582106-CI6FUXT3GIFU5MZSE5TA/6DB804AE-34C9-4765-A697-7CB6098A6A2E.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Affinis “Red Wax Plant”</image:title>
      <image:caption>The leaves on this plant are so fantastic. Some of the larger leaves give me something to look forward to as this plant matures. They are the largest leaves on any Eriostemma currently in my possession and they remind me of little turtle shells due to the texture and marking. They aren’t especially fuzzy, like Ariadna, and they also originate in the Solomon Islands. This Affinis is two plants that I’ve potted together. Affinis hasn’t been a fast grower in my care yet. I’m watching carefully to see if this plant tends to grow more slowly, or if I need to adjust my care.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595546637336-QN6OKB0A5N4J07S9N8AI/logo.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Eriostemma - Guppyi</image:title>
      <image:caption>Photo coming soon. This one has been a journey. Details coming soon.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/hoya</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-12-31</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320309508-Z9WSEW348YRKSJQJRD8K/20140301_Trade-151_0124-copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya carnosa</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320347474-SPJN9CAXX3QN7NN14J9W/Large+JPG-20140228_Trade+151_0046.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya carnosa “Chelsea”</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320405225-U99YGGKF1GFTVRXJW802/HoyaPrincessL.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya carnosa “Krimson Princess”</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320490474-LGNQJT94X9875PKQOA1R/Hoyaqueen.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya carnosa “Krimson Queen”</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320851286-X072BVNFKYGB0FYJPGGS/Hoyacarnosacompacta.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya carnosa “Compacta”</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589320942797-67M410BKMU333IQG6CM5/HoyaAustralisbig2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya australis ssp. Australis.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya australis has several subspecies, Australis, Brookfield, Rupicola, and Tenuipes to name a few. Hoya australis is native to several regions of Australia, hence the name. It’s a really easy care plant, and a fast grower. Both of my plants are ssp. Australis. It has a vining habit. The vines like to curl around anything they can get a hold on, so a trellis would be a natural fit for this plant. This is a wild and rambling Hoya, so be prepared for it to take over a space if it’s happy. I have two of these plants, one in a north window and one in a west window and both are vigorous growers. It’s a versatile Hoya, as exemplified by the growth exhibited from my Hoya australis that grows like a weed in a north window. That particular plant requires less frequent watering as it takes in much less light. These plants have thin, waxy leaves that tell readily about the plant’s hydration requirements. If the leaves go limp, it’s time to water.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589321034197-1DYUNO7RAPTZ6I62AOKB/Hoyailagiorum.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya ilagiorum</image:title>
      <image:caption>I got this plant because it’s said to be an excellent houseplant, a fast grower and an easy bloomer. I haven’t had blooms yet, but I’ve found all the rest to be true. In the 2020 season, it put out two new vines which started coiling around anything within reach. A native of the Philippines, ilagiorum is also known as “Tomato Hoya” because it produces flowers in tomato red. It’s one of those plants that I don’t have to fuss over, it just grows and minds its own business. The leaves vary in width and have an irregular shape. They’re deep green, and tend to grow in clusters on the vine. Some tips: Hoya ilagiorum has thick, medium sized leaves. This tells us that it can tolerate drought by storing water in those fat leaves. The medium size of the leaves are an indication that the plant can tolerate moderate levels of sun. It’ll need more than a larger leaf Hoya, which needs all the surface area it can take to survive a shady environment. However, I have found that this plant can’t tolerate more intense light like some of my other Hoya. It did not appreciate a west window, and prefers the classic “bright indirect” light. I keep it in an east window where no direct rays are able to reach the plant. In higher light, this plant suffers wilted, lifeless leaves no matter how I maintain the water and humidity. This is another plant that is perfectly happy in regular household conditions, speaking of humidity. It is known for being tolerant. This Hoya does get soft, wrinkled leaves when it’s due for water. On more mature plants, the leaves grow in clusters on the vines. This Hoya has a vining habit, and it will climb and twine on anything nearby if it isn’t on a trellis or bamboo stake. If you don’t want it sharing real estate with a neighbor (like mine is) it’s best to provide it with a trellis to keep it busy.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya cv. ‘Iris Marie’ Hoya schneei X Hoya Cembra</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Hoya is a Liddle hybrid, named after Iris Marie Liddle. It was formerly and sometimes is still referred to as Hoya paziae. ‘Iris Marie’ is delightful, easy to please, and a steady grower. The leaves are thin, lack succulence, and come to a graceful point. ‘Iris Marie’ has a vining or climbing habit. It isn’t a plant that will trail gracefully over the side of a pot, at least not in my experience. After I removed the growing stakes, the plant began to twine up the macrame hanger that holds her pot. Since last Spring, the most prolific vine has put out several inches of growth. I used to keep it in my north facing bay window, which isn’t an intense light. I have since moved it to an east window that it shares with Hoya meliflua ssp fraterna, Hoya ‘Chelsea,’ Hoya ilagorium, and Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf.’ Some Tips: Iris marie has thin leaves of a small to medium size. The thin leaves tell us that it doesn’t store much water and will therefore need more regular watering than a plant with thick leaves. The small to medium size of the leaves also tells us that this plant can tolerate bright to medium lighting conditions. Although I do bloom some Hoya in east windows, I don’t expect this plant to bloom unless I move it to higher light conditions. The east window setup fine to sustain this Hoya, so it’ll be healthy whenever I do decide to move it. I do have a Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf’ that is blooming in the same window where ‘Iris Marie lives, but the parasitica is a very different plant that requires different conditions to thrive. Also noteworthy, this plant doesn’t have the “look” of a Hoya, so to speak. This is, for lack of a better term, a very basic looking plant. If you are looking for ease, this is a great choice, but if you’re looking for a more classic Hoya appearance, the thin leaves and nondescript vines might not satisfy you.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya krohniana</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya krohniana is a former member of the Hoya lacunosa grouping, previously going by the name “Heart Leaf Lacunosa.” It has many similarities to H. Lacunosa, but somewhere along the way it was determined to have enough differences to earn its own name. This is Hoya krohniana, but also on the market are H. krohniana “Eskimo” with heavy white markings on the leaves, and H. krohniana “Black Leaves,” which has very dark olive leaves. Hoya krohniana is native to Southeast Asia. This plant hangs in an east window where it gets some direct morning sun. I water it whenever I have time to climb up on a chair and check the leaves and soil. It’s easy to keep and the leaves are very telling. Once they begin to show wrinkling, it’s time to water. This system has worked, and the plant developed a peduncle and bloomed in a short period of time. Since the first peduncle and bloom, this plant has bloomed non-stop, all year round. It is a very satisfying plant to grow, and excellent for a beginner. The unique color and texture to the leaves provides enough visual interest to keep more experienced growers interested as well. For more tips and information on Hoya krohniana, please check my in-depth blog post here. You will find details on the exact conditions I have kept for this plant to grow and bloom.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya linearis</image:title>
      <image:caption>For an in depth analysis on growing this plant indoors, check out my blog post on Hoya linearis. Below you can find general info, but for greater detail on care conditions and blooming, read the blog post. Hoya Linearis was my top wishlist plant, and I’m so happy that it has lived up to every dream and expectation I had. This plant is from the high altitudes in the Himalayas, so it is comfortable with cooler nighttime temps. The long, thin leaves are covered in a fine fuzz, and new growth is extra fuzzy and looks like a little doe foot. The plant has produced several peduncles, but is generally slow to fill them with blooms. In my climate, this plant is a winter bloomer. The blooms come near the start of the new year. The plant lives in a west window where it gets some dappled sunlight through a large tree outside. This plant is great at giving signals when it needs water. The leaves look wilted, and the plant has a more limp appearance. The day after watering, it bounces back and looks as vibrant as ever. This is a unique Hoya in look, feel, and care. I have found, in general, that it’s best to find just the right conditions and then leave it alone. I have heard that you can check the firmness of the narrow leaves to determine the need for water, but I just go by the look. It will wilt when it’s ready. Seeing as how this plant is originally from the mountains of the Himalayas, that speaks to a specific set of care needs. In the higher altitudes, the conditions are humid and swing from high to low temperatures based on day or night, respectively. I recommend a humidifier for this plant. I have kept it in steady humidity for months. After seeing the plant look a little less vibrant if I forget to fill the humidifier, I can tell it’s necessary for Hoya linearis. I’m on the fence about declaring that this is a plant that can be fully sustained by regular household conditions. Because it grows so fast, I have made several propagations of the plant. One has ended up inside one of my greenhouse cabinets where it thrives in the extra humidity and predictable conditions. If you have trouble with it in normal household conditions, and you need an insurance policy on your plant, it wouldn’t hurt to provide it with special growing conditions like a greenhouse cabinet or a grow tent. It has bloomed in my regular conditions, though it did drop several peduncles before it did so. It’s possible.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf’</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant also goes by the name H. Acuta, but I bought mine as H. Parasitica. It lives in an east facing window where it gets a little bit of direct sun. It’s been a very slow grower, but it’s consistently a content plant that doesn’t ask for much. I don’t water this one as often as some of the thin leafed Hoyas that live in the same window.. The leaves are especially firm and they don’t wrinkle or go soft very often. As of summer 2021, it has developed its first peduncle and is setting up to bloom. This is a pleasant surprise, because the plant isn’t one of my more active growers. Some Tips: This plant is especially drought tolerant in my conditions. The leaves are plump and indicate that drought tolerance is a natural adaptation for this plant. The vines are substantially woody and inflexible once hardened. I used to provide supplemental humidity, which I did not find to be necessary for this plant. I stopped for the summer, but I’ll pick it back up in the winter. This is a slow grower and I sometimes get “plastic plant” vibes from it, although it does have some new growth happening. It isn’t a plant that will put out two fresh leaves overnight, at least in my experience. It has taken more patience. This is why the peduncle came as such a surprise. Stay tuned for updates once it develops flowers.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya Potsii sp. 22 Khao Yai</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant is named for the Khao Yai Forest in Thailand, where it was first discovered. I love it more than I expected. The leaves have a unique elongated form and some of the mature leaves are huge. The new leaves are a deep maroon, though this could be because the plant gets a lot of bright light from a south window. When watering, I check to be sure the leaves wrinkle or bend easily as a sign that the plant needs hydration. They aren’t shy about wilting when it’s time to water. This plant is one of the few in my collection that has lived in the same spot since I got it. The south window has been good for it, and it’s grown rapidly. As of summer 2021, it has developed a peduncle that’s about to burst any moment. This plant will be my next Hoya “Plant Profile,” so look for that soon. I am excited to do some more research on the plant, and share what has been successful in growing and blooming this Hoya indoors.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya multiflora</image:title>
      <image:caption>I don’t have this plant figured out just yet. It’s very different than most Hoya I own. The leaves are thin and feel almost papery. Because the leaves aren’t thick and succulent, I water this plant more than most of my Hoya. Also known as “Shooting Star Hoya,” this plant has clusters of yellow and white flowers that look like the name suggests. Many say it flowers easily, and though I’ve seen a lot of growth on my plant, it has yet to flower. This plant is of Indonesian origin and appreciates bright indirect light. Update: I never felt a connection with this plant. I gave it to someone who would be appreciative of this type of Hoya, and the last I heard, it was doing well.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya “Rebecca”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I purchased this plant as H. Sipitangensis, but I disagree with that identification. I think looks an awful lot like H. “Rebecca,” which would be a cross of H. Lacunosa ‘Langawi Island’ X Hoya obscura, according to VermontHoyas.com. After scrutinizing many flowers from this plant, I started calling it “Rebecca.” It lives in an east window where it has flowered and grown even more peduncles. In a few months, it has gone from one to more than ten peduncles. The original peduncle has already bloomed and dropped this year, and all the rest are in some stage of continual bloom. It isn’t the most glamorous looking Hoya, but for growth and blooming, it really delivers. For more information on this species, please visit the blog post dedicated to this plant here. You can learn more about the plant ID, as well as a deeper investigation into this plant.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya meliflua ssp. Fraterna</image:title>
      <image:caption>I sought out this species for a long time before choosing a plant and buying it. I specifically wanted the subspecies Fraterna because the leaves are longer than H. Meliflua. I knew that it can be a more challenging plant for indoors, but I love the long slender leaves and wanted to take on the challenge. This plant is originally from the Philippines and according to Ted Green (rare-hoyas.com), the leaves can reach 45 cm in the wild. I haven’t seen much growth from it in an east facing window that works wonders for other Hoya. I’ve kept it in the same spot die to it’s size. It would be an excellent candidate for a greenhouse cabinet, but the size of the plant prohibits that move from being made. It’s a goal for the future. The rate of growth has picked up over time, so I know that the plant is doing well. This is one that I’m looking to change up in the future and hopefully provide more info on how it responds. Some tips: This really is a more challenging Hoya indoors. It might not necessarily decline in health or wellness if you give it your best possible conditions indoors, but it won’t grow like a weed and bloom, either. It likes to put its vines to use, so giving it something to climb or wrap around is a good idea. Extra humidity is a great idea. The leaves are big, thick and have an especially waxy feel. This plant can go longer between waterings and the size of the mature leaves tells me that it could stand a medium light condition. Mine takes some direct morning sun. With all of that being said, it’s a consistent plant, at least. It isn’t dramatic, and it doesn’t drop leaves and put up fuss. In all, I think this one boils down to humidity.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya pubicalyx</image:title>
      <image:caption>I’m not sure which variety of H. Pubicalyx I have. I purchased it at nursery in Indiana and it was not labeled. It lives in a west window in my upstairs hall where it gets nice light. It loves to climb the macrame hanger, and I’ve trimmed it back a couple of times to maintain the size. I love the pattern of the leaf splash. Pubicalyx, at least in my area, is a fairly easy Hoya to find. Since the care is easy, it seems to be a popular plant, and for good reason.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya “Mathilde” Hoya carnosa X Hoya serpens</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya ‘Mathilde’ is a hybrid that resulted from the cross of Hoya carnosa and Hoya serpens. The flowers look like those of Hoya Carnosa, just smaller. ‘Mathilde’ has a sister, a seedling that came from the same pod, named ‘Chouke.’ Though ‘Chouke’ still has small leaves like ‘Matilde,’ the leaves have a sharper point like parent plant H. Carnosa, whereas ‘Mathilde’ tends to have more rounded leaves like parent plant H. Serpens. I recently got ‘Chouke,’ so I’m giving her time to acclimate before I write about what I’ve seen and observed from her. Stay tuned. I was worried that ‘Mathilde’ might be a difficult plant, and I’m glad that I was wrong. I had success with her in regular household conditions, but I was looking for more variety in my greenhouse cabinets as they were being taken over by Begonias. I put ‘Mathilde’ in the greenhouse cabinet because her parent plant Hoya serpens had been doing so well there. Now ‘Mathilde’ is growing like crazy in the greenhouse cabinet, so I keep her there even though it might not be necessary. Some tips: I’ve learned not to let ‘Mathilde’ dry out too much. I use a smaller terra-cotta pot with very well draining soil, so if you like to use all of those precautions like me, keep a close eye on the watering. When ‘Mathilde’ is thirsty, she won’t wrinkle as much as her leaves will deflate and veins will appear. This is a cue for me to water.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya wayetii</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant receives light from an east window and retains its green leaves. However, with more light, the leaves will have a dark brownish-black rim around the edge. With even more light, the leaves will be red with a darker edge. Both Hoya longifolia and Hoya kentiana are often confused for Hoya wayetii and vice versa. It’s difficult to know exactly what you’re getting, even if the plant is labeled at the time of purchase. For tips on how to tell the three plants apart, read my blog post on Hoya wayetii variegata, where I get into the differences between the above mentioned plants. Regardless, this plant looks beautiful hanging. The leaves form a cascade of pointed leaves that looks striking from across the room. Growth was moderate in the cooler months, but in the summer, this plant can really take off. The new leaves emerge thinner and then thicken with time. Over the winter, typically a leaf will pop up here and there, but in the summer, several inches of leafless vine have shot out and slowly filled in with green leaves. Some tips: Though the summer vines are everywhere on this plant, it doesn’t show any interest in using them to climb or spiral around the hanger. It seems to be naturally a hanging plant. The leaves are thick and heavy, but with more regular watering I do see more growth. The plant is versatile with light. You can read how much light it’s been receiving based on the green, green with dark rim, or reddish leaves. In my experience, you are more likely to have a plant with blooms if the light is higher. This plant takes some direct morning sun and this same window has been sufficient to bloom other Hoya in my house, but not this one yet. This leads me to believe that the plant could tolerate even higher light than my east window provides. For more specific details on all of the above, including blooming, check out my blog post linked above.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya retusa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya Retusa has been a constant struggle for me. I just can’t figure out what it wants. Originally from India, H. Retusa is said to prefer warm days and cool nights. When I purchased the plant, the seller told me to give it lots of sun and humidity. It lives next to other plants who demand similar conditions, but Retusa is far more fussy than the rest. It just seems, in my conditions, to be a plant that dries out regardless of water and humidity. I still have hope for it, and I’ll probably try putting it on the porch in a last ditch effort to revive it. Update: Hoya Retusa is loving life outside. Update Summer 2021: I finally accepted that this plant and I were not a match and I donated her to a local organization with a huge tropical plant collection.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya lacunosa ‘Snow Caps’</image:title>
      <image:caption>I love this plant. I hesitated to buy it, but I’m so glad I ended up bringing it home. This is a Costa Farms EA plant that came in a very full 8” pot. It’s always lived in a South window, just off to the side so it doesn’t take any direct sun but it gets tons of light. It’s bloomed constantly since I’ve had it, usually on peduncles that it grew during the winter! Like Hoya krohniana, it blooms all year in my house. The leaves are thin, and it benefits from being watered thoroughly. The combination of smaller thinner leaves plus the high light environment makes me extra attentive to this plant hydration levels being properly maintained. It doesn’t live near a humidifier, though I do mist it occasionally just to refresh the leaves. Some tips: Small leaves mean that this plant can take the higher light of the south window, but the thin leaves mean she needs to be hydrated more often. Other than that, this plant doesn’t ask for much.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya incressata albomarginata</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant came from KOKO Ranch Hoyas, which I love and check regularly for the unique plants they offer. It was in a north bay window which was sufficient enough light for several new leaves to grow. Some of the leaves have gorgeous definition between the white and green, but other leaves might need a boost of light to make the variegation pop. I have since moved it to a west window where it has grown much faster and maintained variegation more successfully. I was excited to see this plant available as it isn’t one I’ve come across frequently. If you see it available, it would make a great addition to your collection due to the pretty variegation and ease of care. The leaves are oddly shaped and colored, and each one is different than the next. The vines and leaves are both firm and don’t take shape on the trellis easily. I just clip a vine into place with a butterfly clip, and allow the leaves to turn to the light on their own. It has a few promising new growth points, so I’m excited to see how this one develops. Some tips: If this plant doesn’t get enough light, it will lose variegation in the new growth. The plant will need more chlorophyll to sustain its needs and will forego the variegation to produce efficient green leaves. If you notice this happening, relocate the plant to a location with higher light.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya serpens</image:title>
      <image:caption>For the full story on growing this plant indoors, check out my blog post on Hoya serpens. There, you will find plenty of details on how I was able to take this plant from inactive to blooming. This is my tiniest Hoya! I hope one day it will grow into a big, strong plant but I have a feeling that’ll be years from now. H. Serpens hails from the Himalayas, and it doesn’t have the reputation of being an easy care Hoya, at least from what I’ve heard from some growers. I wanted to start out small because this plant is hard to find and really expensive. I didn’t want to risk a big, fussy plant that cost a fortune. It is showing new growth finally after several months of zero activity. See the blog post listed above for updates, including the blooms!</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya sp. aff. burtoniae</image:title>
      <image:caption>Coming Soon!</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya skinneriana “Dee’s Big One”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Coming Soon.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya longifolia</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Hoya is also known as Hoya shepherdii or “the Green Bean Hoya, ” or “String Bean Hoya.” It is sometimes confused for Hoya wayetii, though the leaves are longer and thinner than those of H. Wayetii. H. Longifolia was discovered in the Himalayas of India. It isn’t an especially fast grower, but it is consistent. The vines are substantial and woody when mature, and the flowers are small and light pink. It doesn’t mind drying out between watering in the winter, but I have been watering more often in the summer when this plant is in constant bloom. The foliage is thick and looks waxy. I keep this plant in a west window with my orchids, and both species are very content with this location and show it with their steady blooms. You can read more about Hoya Longifolia here. If you need more information on differentiating this plant from H. wayetii or H. kentiana, check here.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya wayetii variegata</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya wayetii variegata starts new leaves in deep maroon, they eventually soften to hot pink, and then reach maturity in shades of green and yellow. The colorful foliage is so attractive, and sunlight broadens the range of colors this plant produces. This is another Hoya that is often confused for H. kentiana, in fact, there’s some dispute over H. kentiana and H. wayetii being the same plant. I definitely see the similarities in leaf shape and texture. Check here for details on the differences between the two plants. H. wayetii grows steadily for me after relocating her to a west window. Prior to that, growth was slow. Now that she’s in a happier place, even in the winter months, I see growth happening, but it isn’t fast growth. It’s just enough to let you know it’s still with you. This plant has thrived in the west window as compared to the east, and it produces leaves of many colors. Again, there’s a full blog post on this plant where you can learn all about the care info for this plant indoors as well as see the blooms and hear my tips on blooming indoors. You can read it here.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya ‘Chouke’</image:title>
      <image:caption>Coming Soon.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Hoya - Hoya curtisii</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hoya curtisii has been a challenge, but we’re somehow getting through it together. Things are now taking off in dramatic fashion. More on that soon! In the past, I felt like it was always on the verge of taking a turn for the worst, but it just keeps hanging on. I’ve heard many different stories of success with this plant. It seems there’s no “one size fits all” for Curtisii. Some have advised that it loves to be watered very often, others have advised to let it dry completely between watering. I try to keep it somewhere in the middle. The real positive improvement came when I moved this huge plant into my greenhouse cabinet. This move was literally a lifesaver for the plant. After months, maybe even years of barely hanging on, this plant now has vines that are feet in length. I would most definitely recommend special growing conditions like a greenhouse cabinet or a grow tent for this plant. I’m sure there are people out there who grow it in regular household conditions, but my plant needed that extra boost of humidity plus that just right glow of the grow lights to start living its best life. The root system can be shallow on H. Curtisii, so I keep it in a wide, shallow pot so it has more room to creep. It does love to creep, by the way. Even inside my greenhouse cabinet, this plant loves to climb other plants, or even the walls of the cabinet. It has remarkably sticky little fingers, and it uses them to travel around. Some Tips: Curtisii has tiny leaves and they’re very firm with regular watering. This would indicate that the plant can take higher sun and more drought. I’ve kept this plant in medium everything except humidity. It really loves humidity.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589423366900-MNZMKDI56NITTWXY4733/BBEC1657-3AB7-4510-A4A2-EC2CBF8C815D.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aglaonema - Aglaonema “Silver Bay”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This beauty is a companion to my Philodendron Congo Rojo. The two sit together next to my north-facing French doors and mostly keep to themselves. The light is lower, although it is constant throughout the day. “Silver Bay” has a perky, upright growth habit, and the contrast of the green and silver on the leaves is striking. “Silver Bay” can withstand lower light conditions, but as with many plants, you’ll see more growth with medium to bright light. This isn’t a plant for high or direct light conditions. The water should be adjusted based on the light your plant receives. If the light is low, it’ll naturally need less water in most cases. The same could be said for periods when the plant isn’t in active growth. This is another time that it’s best to use caution when watering Aglaonema.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589486101888-98O2D8BRVRQPH3NI2131/AgloEttaRosetop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aglaonema - Aglaonema “Etta Rose”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Etta Rose has been moved around a bit in the search for the perfect spot for her to live. This plant has shown her versatility in this process. I think we’ve finally settled on a few feet away from an upstairs west window. Etta Rose has bloomed twice in this location, so I think that’s all the confirmation I need to know that she’s happy there. I received this plant bare root, and I wish I had chosen a larger pot when I dug around in my collection to find the right home for her. As far as her happiness, it seems to be working out swimmingly, but as far as my need to keep up with her watering, it makes a big difference. I feel like I need to water her every few days since she’s in a small, shallow pot with a looser Aroid mix. I’d thought about changing things up by repotting her into a bigger pot with a slightly heavier mix, but Etta Rose is happy and blooming, so I think I’ll keep things as they are for now. Some Tips: Etta Rose will appreciate more light than other Aglaonema in my experience. She also, in my experience, doesn't mind being root bound. It’s not a long-term situation to strive for, but Etta Rose has not pouted or wilted like some other plants might in these conditions.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591638742226-G0IKF1L45DR5KZJ0ALNP/Aglaonemasparklingsarah.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aglaonema - Aglaonema “Sparkling Sarah”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was the Aglaonema that got me interested in the species. I was and continue to be so fascinated by the colorful foliage. This plant is in one of the darker spots in my home, but it continues to grow steadily. She’s really reliable as far as looking awesome with little maintenance. Luckily for Sparkling Sarah, however, she lives in close proximity to some higher maintenance plants, so she never gets truly looked over. Sarah lives opposite my plant nursery cart, which resides in a sunny west window. Sarah’s corner, however, isn’t able to get much more than a soft glow coming off of that window. I would call her circumstances low light. Since she isn’t taking in a lot of light, She also doesn’t take in water at a high rate. The amazing thing is, even if I do miss a watering, Sarah still looks great. She doesn’t fuss and drop or discolor leaves. This is a great plant for a beginner, or a great Aglaonema gateway plant like she was for me.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1589423241363-A6TPAN5FIK3OA5A2IAQB/3457AB2B-99B7-4911-A7D0-FA9A6DB67222.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aglaonema - Aglaonema “Wishes”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I’m not entirely certain on the identity of this plant. I purchased it without any identification. I was drawn to the color and pattern of the leaves. They are more round than any of my other Aglaonema, and the pink is always eye-catching. I tried putting this plant outdoors this spring on my completely shaded front porch, but that seemed too intense for her somewhat delicate sensibilities. It dropped a couple of leaves, which I didn’t find uncommon for a change in venue, but something about the leaf drop, drooping of healthy leaves, and general peeked appearance of the plant put up some major red flags for me. I moved it back inside to its lower light location directly under an East window and within a few weeks it had started blooming. Some Tips: In my experience, Aglaonema can tolerate a repotting without getting fussy. Often, plants that come to us in dense nursery soil inside plastic nursery pots are not going to do well for us as houseplants. The dense soil and non-porous pot are great for growers who need to get these plants to grow quickly, often from cuttings or seeds. Once a plant is switched to a household where it isn’t encountering the heat and humidity of an outdoor growing environment, we need to customize the pot and soil (as the grower did) for optimum health of the plant. This does NOT mean completely stripping the rootball of soil, rinsing it with water, or doubling the size of the pot. Gently removing any soil that falls away freely and increasing the size of the pot by an inch or two for a plant that’s showing roots circling the pot will be sufficient.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591816848292-AJANBWNR4KLFME73SJ34/AgloSiamtop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aglaonema - Aglaonema “Red Siam”</image:title>
      <image:caption>I found this plant at a big box retailer and was impressed with the red outline on the foliage. I was (and always am) going through an Aglaonema phase, so I had to grab it. This plant really can handle low light. It isn’t demanding and would be an excellent and easy-to-find option for someone who would like to have an Aglaonema houseplant. It handles the indoor conditions well, and as long as it isn’t in direct sun, it can be happy. It isn’t a water hog either. I water it when the soil feels dry on top, but I never need to go through the guessing game “should I or shouldn’t I” water. As always, its better to underwater and add more if necessary, but you won’t find drama here. It’s just a versatile indoor plant. Some Tips: I have learned that this plant prefers cooler shade from two failed attempts to place the plant outdoors. The heat didn’t suit this plant in either occasion, but as soon as I put it in regular household temperatures, it began thriving again.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Aglaonema</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Aglaonema</image:title>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Aglaonema</image:title>
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      <image:title>Aglaonema</image:title>
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    <lastmod>2020-07-17</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
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      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591642736268-A47CN6SKCYL29GTQ6R2Z/20140301_Trade-151_0124-copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595002593453-8AFJB3VC52GNO0XFN7HD/IMG_3524.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Aroid Blooms</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/hoyablooms</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-07-13</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591636890921-0UI6H1LKFIXPSKG5FFN7/hoyasipbloom5.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591637296849-LEADVIJLDSIF6Q35AC43/Hoyashepherdiibloom5%3A20.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591637587351-PYESUTH33LCUZ42MZEAY/Hoyasipbloom6%3A2020.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594674577576-29BS56N2MU31QKD1MZFE/IMG_6491.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594674655044-CO48W3V5CIYYW03BJ91X/hoyakrohnianabloom.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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      <image:title>Hoya Blooms</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/humidifiers</loc>
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    <lastmod>2022-06-25</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591648044055-H94XSMA1C89LO4NGY6JA/geniani.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591648290763-YD2MM7EJ5KS96EYECILV/Puregray.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591648677933-BRPME1BA538FEOBF2XUG/Large+JPG-Aro+Ha_0428.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591649107843-Z95Q8T1Z7347MGS3XAPL/A685614D-58B1-4442-81CB-A2329E279020_1_105_c.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591649636544-752YB6NNAOOXCIZ4A5QO/C89DCD4C-C6EA-4BAF-9642-853BFB54CBA2_1_105_c.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1596934960826-D96EORUVROO9TKLDRT6F/Screen+Shot+2020-08-08+at+9.02.09+PM.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers - ThermoPro Digital Hygrometer.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I love the ease. You have temperature, humidity, a little comfort indicator (which is subjective, I suppose) and highs and lows. I like the high and low features because it’s nice to know how much of a difference my humidifiers are making, and I can test this by keeping an eye on the humidity high and low block.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1596935544834-ODXDNTXGGFHF31P4BSYL/Screen+Shot+2020-08-08+at+9.12.07+PM.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers - Veanic 4-Pack Mini Digital Meters.</image:title>
      <image:caption>For those of you who want to buy a multi-pack and stick them to every wall - no judgement. I’ve been there, I’m still sometimes there.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591805158737-X03NHA192DPDTC9DMHV4/Humidity.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Humidifiers</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/pots</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-08-09</lastmod>
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      <image:title>pots</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591643288100-TYONN10E2KL3Z4NTT7DX/ladypots.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>pots</image:title>
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      <image:title>pots</image:title>
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      <image:title>pots</image:title>
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      <image:title>pots</image:title>
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      <image:title>pots</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ruthie still resides in a nursery pot, safely tucked into a Flamingo Cache pot.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1591831358546-0VFQJ6V5OYY4IOWT8E88/Doublefittonia.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>pots</image:title>
      <image:caption>Double Fittonia, Double Terra-Cotta.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Begonia in Plastic.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>H. Multiflora, totally glazed.</image:caption>
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  <url>
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    <lastmod>2020-06-16</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/sunroom</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-07-06</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/ceropegia</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-07-23</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592847467211-JVSG8NJ2HI4RHOH0G8YW/ceropegiaduo.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia - Ceropegia Woodii.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant also goes by String of Hearts, Rosary Vine, or Chain of Hearts. The hearts on a hydrated plant will be firm, much harder than they look. A great way to detect that the plant needs water is by gently trying to press the two lobes of a heart together. If the heart wrinkles bends, it’s time to water it. If it doesn’t budge, your plant is hydrated. It’s best to try this with a heart from the upper or middle section of the vine as they are closer to the root system and will be a better indicator due to their maturity. The new leaves sprouting from the ends of the vine will be lighter in color and won’t be firm until maturity. This plant can also tell you if it is receiving sufficient light, remarkably. If the leaves have a purple cast on the front or back of the leaves, they are likely doing well in regard to light. I have this plant next to a West window where I believe it receives a good amount of light for its needs. Water can be tricky with this plant. When I bought my first plant, the advice I was given, “never water. Like, ever, “ didn’t really work out. My interpretation of that was maybe to water the plant monthly. I’ve found that, in my environment, I need to water these plants more frequently, closer to every other week or so. I check the soil before watering and I also do a leaf check. If both tests are telling me to water, I water.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592845399269-JAVQRXYU843TYSLSU51D/Stringofheartsvar.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia - Ceropegia Woodii Variegata.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Sometimes called Variegated String of Hearts, I find the care of this plant to be similar to String of Hearts. It likes a little bit more light to compensate for the white variegated portions of the leaves that do not produce chlorophyll to feed the plant. Just like the String of Hearts, the plant will show a purplish cast to the leaves when it is receiving enough sun. I have this plant living on a West windowsill above kitchen sink where it has access to both sun and humidity. It’s a quick grower, but not as quick as the green String of Hearts. It’s harder to find this variegated plant in a larger pot size (at least in my area), so I am currently in the process of creating a larger plant out of this small pot both through propagation and by winding the existing vines along the surface the soil so it’ll produce more vines.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592847364120-9UX9NJY09HRN9OFPGEVQ/ceropegiasandersoniilong.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia - Ceropegia Sandersonii.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is a tough plant. The vines are substantial, heavy and fibrous. Ceropegia Sandersonii doesn’t have the delicate appearance of Ceropegia Woodii. The vines are firm and are more likely to swing back and forth due to their rigid habit than bend and flow. This plant likes bright light. It’s easily to see from the thick vines and foliage that it can take more intense light. I don’t do any direct sun for it, but I keep it within the bright reach of a South window where its cousins, my Hoya and Eriostemma, live. This plant is low maintenance and I probably water it once a month. I couldn’t even wager a guess because it really is so low maintenance that I just let it do its thing. The leaves of this plant can also be checked for wrinkling to determine when it’s time to water, but it isn’t often that it'll give a sign. In fact, the leaves can be so firm that they’re actually sharp. It’s a very visually interesting plant, not something you’ll see every day. I didn’t really know what I was buying when I found this plant a year ago, but I’m so glad I took a chance and bought it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593215150391-L4WWKJRLG575SN0YMFO8/ceropegiawilt.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ceropegia Sandersonii showing wrinkling, a sign that it needs to be watered.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593215248794-QAZZBC0L7CPQ1R0I2ZPJ/ceropegiatuber.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ceropegia Woodii tuber beginning to grow on the vine.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592846841719-XQC1O3DCBRSNK5FX5T2Y/ceropegiabloom.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ceropegia Woodii flower, Winter 2019.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592846884487-8KZVP86CS1V8V3EI7BEX/ceropegiacascade.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Cascade of Ceropegia at Graye’s Greenhouse in Plymouth, MI.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592847198404-3UTYU6Y2HKQ4DE0D2A5B/ceropegiavarclose.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ceropegia Woodii - Variegated.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592847274357-HMZC97NGE3QF5J6DH5G2/ceropegiasandersonii.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Ceropegia</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ceropegia Sandersonii at Ben Sell’s Greenhouse in Toledo, OH.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/rhipsalis</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-08-18</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592856191231-76C8BSPT5NIOVA6LQ7TH/rhipsalisparadoxa.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Paradoxa.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was my first Rhipsalis, and it kicked off my love for any and all Rhipsalis from that point forward. This is actually several plants, at least four or five, that I added together to create a fuller specimen. I’ve found it very difficult to find a full plant available for purchase, so this plant came together over time as I collected single rooted cuttings. A large plant, if you can find one, could cost over a hundred dollars or more. It might be more economical for you to collect smaller plants over time. The care is easy, and it doesn’t take up much of my time. Every week to every other week I check the plant, as well as most of the other rhipsalis, and water as needed. This plant is less likely than some of the others to wrinkle or pucker when it needs water, so I’m careful to feel for a softness in the stem. That’s a good sign that the plant needs to be watered. Unlike a few of my other Rhipsalis, I do water this plant through the drainage hole and allow it to sit for a few minutes with water in the saucer. This pot is shallow and since it has several small plants within, I find this to be the best way to ensure equal moisture to all of the plants in the pot. Some Tips: Build your plant over time if you can’t find a full specimen. Look out for small, hair-like protrusions from the modified stems of the plant. This could be a sign that you need more humidity or water for your plant.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592856229719-0HGPO9GEUP791UTYI1YF/rhipsalispilocarpa.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Pilocarpa.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is actually three plants that I combined into one pot to create a fuller plant. The three seem to get along well, and even flowered at the same time. This plant is another that’s really easy to read when it’s time for watering. The stems pucker or wrinkle, and that’s the sign to water. The stems are covered with a soft white fuzziness, and the flowers are white. The plant will develop berries as well. Some tips: This plant can grow fast in the right conditions, so make sure you put it in a space where it has room to grow. I had this over an archway in my kitchen and later had to move it because it grew so long. The plant tolerated the move without a problem, but I stressed over relocating it. This can be true for all pendant Rhipsalis or Lepismuim, but this one grows fastest for me.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592857523585-FGYA3FLJ5UKK33KNNJNK/rhipsalisbaccifera.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Baccifera.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rhipsalis Baccifera is stunning. In addition to being beauty, it’s low maintenance. The stems are juicy enough to show wrinkles when the plant needs to be watered. It grows pretty quickly and, along with Rhipsalis Cereuscula, it will soon need to be relocated to accommodate its size. This is a great place to start if you want to get into Rhipsalis. I have been able to find this plant easily, and it doesn’t have the insanely high cost like Rhipsalis Paradoxa. When watering this plant, I water through the drainage hole and also allow it a few minutes to sit with water in the saucer. Some Tips: This plant will occasionally drop tiny sections of modified stem. All Rhipsalis have this tendency, but this one seems to do so more often than the rest. This is one way the plant reproduces in the wild. I usually grab the tiny disconnected piece and put it back on top of the soil. It’s good to let the piece harden off for a day or two before putting it onto the soil. New growth from this plant will usually shoot straight up from the pot before growing more branches and eventually hanging, or becoming pendant.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592857572256-L7A1324L6D4EQ61VTRCL/rhipsaliscampos-portoana.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Capilliformis.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I’m not sure on the ID of this Rhipsalis. It’s much thinner and more fragile than R. Baccifera, although the look and habit are similar. The biggest difference is the width of the stems. This plant tends to dry out quickly and it needs more frequent watering than the other Rhipsalis in order to maintain hydration. I water through the drainage hole and let it sit with water in the saucer for up to 10 minutes. This allows equal moisture inside the pot, which this plant appreciates due to its tendency to dry out quickly. Because it is so fragile, the small stems can break off easily. I usually place the broken stems on top of the soil’s surface or stick them down into the soil and hope they’ll root. Typically, they do. Some tips: Using caution when moving the plant and making sure the plant doesn’t dry out are my two biggest points with this plant.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592857627417-7K5DMI0X510M46K2JVQ4/rhipsaliscereuscula.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Unknown.</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Rhipsalis of an unknown name has almost outgrown its home in my North bay window and will soon need to be relocated to a place where it can hang freely. I haven’t found this plant to be picky about watering, or anything else, for that matter. If I have the time to water it through the drainage hole and let it sit, then I do it. Other times, I just throw some water in the pot and this plant doesn’t protest with either method. It’s one of the more flexible when it comes to watering, and it still grows like a weed. This is another Rhipsalis that would be great to try if you’re looking for a place to start - if only I knew the name! Recently, in fact, I’ve seen this plant at Home Depot for around $6 per 4” pot. Unfortunately, those pots just say “cactus,” which hasn’t helped me with identification of this plant. Some Tips: Again, give this one some room to grow. Other than that, it’s easy and quite prolific. Let me know if you have an ID for this plant!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1592859523318-HYPN4KFDBH0UDF67NJ97/rhipsaliselliptica.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Ramulosa.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I bought this as “Rhipsalis Romulosa - Red Mistletoe Cactus.” It does have a reddish cast, despite any light is does or doesn’t receive. It isn’t a fast grower, but occasionally I’ll see little round spots of new growth at the tips of the stems. The round dots grow over time and eventually begin to look like a new “finger” on the plant. I was told that this plant enjoys partial shade and prefers to dry between watering. I follow those guidelines and this plant seems to be happy. Some Tips: This plant has required patience that is uncharacteristic for other Rhipsalis I grow. IT isn’t one that’s showing new growth every day.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593216519185-DG2HUAEZJFGF6UZRJYPO/rhipsaliscereuscula.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Cereuscula.</image:title>
      <image:caption>R. Cereuscula is native to Brazil and Uruguay. It is also known as “Coral Cactus,” “Mistletoe Cactus,” or “Rice Cactus.” Though this Rhipsalis is typically round and bushy variety, it sends out longer “arms” that can get quite long and pendant. This R. Cereuscula has not yet become pendant. It’s bushy with hairs along the stems that are fewer and finer than Rhipsalis Pilocarpa. I haven’t found R. Cereuscula to be demanding at all. Like other Rhipsalis in my home, it’s easy and a joy to keep.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593217322261-O2XLFWXQ5YTGJ3RTNRB5/rhipsalismesembryanthemoides.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Good thing this plant goes by “Clumpy Mistletoe Cactus,” because I’m not even going to attempt it’s full name out loud. It’s drought and heat tolerant and prefers bright indirect light or morning sun only, like most Rhipsalis. It’s not going to appreciate intense or direct light. Like many Rhipsalis, Mesembryanthemoides begins bushy, then more erect, and finally pendant. Also like many Rhipsalis, it’s great for a shelf or hanging basket. I haven’t had this plant long, so I can’t speak to watering patterns over time, but I do expect it to prefer to dry out between waterings like other Rhipsalis. Some Tips: Treasure it. This plant is critically endangered in its natural Brazilian home due to habitat loss.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595548002357-1HBYA6DX69OS0H4NENTI/IMG_2592.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Ewaldiana.</image:title>
      <image:caption>The stems of Rhipsalis Ewaldiana are small, thin and mostly triangular. With the exception of Rhipsalis Capilliformis, these are the smallest of modified stems with some no larger than a toothpick. Though some look flat, it’s an optical illusion, at least on my plants. There’s a ridge on one side that completes the triangular formation. Ewaldina is a delicate looking beauty compared to the other oddities in the genus. Rhipsalis Pilocarpa and Baccifera took daily contact as I reached for spices in my kitchen area and they were no worse for the wear, but Ewaldiana looks too delicate to even graze. It isn’t too delicate, but I’m definitely not going to be storing my Thyme anywhere near this guy, just to be sure. This plant is very content in a north facing window where it gets natural light from sunup to sundown. I used my epiphytic soil mix, and it’s watered slightly more often than the sturdier Rhipsalis both due to the tiny size of the modified stems and because it has a shallow pot that tends to dry out faster. Think Capilliformis with watering.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595548105895-YSC6P12C7JEN3GW1STOR/Rhipsalisagudoensis.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Agudoensis.</image:title>
      <image:caption>The new growth on Rhipsalis Agudoensis is a striking deep orange, even reddish shade. It’s a sturdy plant with an upright habit. I expected more of a drape to the plant, but it’s happy to stand straight up. Rhipsalis Agudoensis isn’t a plant on the worry list. I feel like I could sweep the floor with it and it would be just fine. The shapes on the modified stems vary, some triangular and some elliptical. This seems like a plant that’s going to do whatever it wants, and I’m okay with that. I could be wrong, but I think it’ll eventually need to hang or sit on a shelf where it can drape.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597536006358-NOIDHVYQSGVAVMGUF9CU/IMG_9694.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Clavata.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rhipsalis Clavata is another low maintenance member of the Rhipsalis genus. It can be s difficult one to find for sale. It comes from the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. With more sun, the plant can take a pinkish cast. This plant lives between large east and north windows where it gets some morning sun. This has been an ideal location, and the plant has new growth. Rhipsalis Clavata is as fragile as it looks, in my experience. Like Rhipsalis Capilliformis, I avoid any contact with the plant unless I’m watering it or tending to it. This could be because I love this plant and don’t want to have to try to replace it. Small white flowers emerge near the tips of the stems, and this Rhipsalis will form berries as Rhipsalis tend to do when they’re happy.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597537153639-3Q5YAPU7DWBL3Z8J94UV/IMG_4385.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Pentaptera.</image:title>
      <image:caption>The identification on this one isn’t certain, but I can’t find a closer fit. The ribs on the plant number 5-6 as they should on a Rhipsalis Pentaptera, but they aren’t deeply ridged. The ridges are soft, more like waves. This plant, whatever it is, is such an easy plant to keep. It lives in a north window and the light is sufficient. Recently I added a humidifier to the area just for good measure.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597789546434-H9G1K4V1GUIBFGLVTKXD/IMG_4380.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Micrantha</image:title>
      <image:caption>Info Coming Soon.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597789786586-1U62FGQRD3LDBR453DV3/logo.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis - Rhipsalis Lindbergiana</image:title>
      <image:caption>Coming Soon.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218263912-5F3MRAAOYTTATPA1UX70/range.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>The North bay window where my Rhipsalis live. See hanging arms.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218322225-HQ8SADLVEU9PW9PF1CZA/rhipbloom1.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rhipsalis Pilocarpa in bloom in November, 2019.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218525243-ZG0H7W0DB04HHW37DL5G/rhipnoid2.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218580757-443UREHBUFMATJ17ASMQ/RhipsalisNOID.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218625630-NZLMR6YNQZD4MWWEVF9A/rhipshelf.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>Left to Right: Rhipsalis Paradoxa, Rattail cactus, Rhipsalis Cereuscula, Rhipsalis Ramulosa, and Rhipsalis unknown.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1593218783614-VZHZUYSYJZDMB3IDTUSC/rhipshelf2.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>Left to Right: Rhipsalis unknown, Rhipsalis Capilliformis, Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595548259671-8FM3QCYF757WWWOMS6UD/IMG_0034.PNG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rhipsalis Ewaldiana before adding another plant and upgrading the pot.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595548305727-VJOYDRL6DA4YC2RVM3S7/rhipslaisagdoensis2.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rhipsalis Agudoensis up close.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597790048247-JNIJIMV2WCPN8Y1TZAL3/IMG_4381.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597790098199-FS253LE24YISJR5D8OI0/IMG_4382.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Rhipsalis</image:title>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/begonias</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-07-23</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752195241-3G5W2A671PEDBLROFLHO/westright.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia Maculata “Polka Dot”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Begonia is from Costa Farm’s Trending Tropicals Collection. It’s so gorgeous, I wish I had bought more. This plant likes humidity and consistent watering. As a cane Begonia, it also appreciates regular fertilizer. It’s a fast grower, and without the fertilizer it tends to get leggy. The leaves are large and have a substantial weight and feel, so it might also be necessary to support the canes with bamboo stakes or your favorite support system. It likes a light soil, nothing heavy or poorly draining. This is a plant that can reach several feet in height if the conditions are right, and repotting will be necessary along the way. If you want to keep your plant smaller, it propagates easily. The canes can be cut to the desired height and the cuttings can be put in water or soil to root. Once the cuttings have rooted, it’s safe to put them back with the original plant or allow them to become a new plant.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752413628-ROZITGH6I9MMSF3L2X1F/Add+a+subheading-2.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia “Baby Dress”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Begonia “Baby Dress” has striking lime green foliage with maroon patterns at the leaf edges. This plant responds very well to indoor conditions. It’s a great houseplant for both its visual interest and its acceptance of the indoor environment. This plant gets no special treatment and it still thrives. There is no supplementary humidity, and no hovering over it to check for watering. It’s low maintenance.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594751880461-19XZGDPQJJRQ0YR2OYMF/begonia.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia “Tiger Paw”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Begonia “Tiger Paw” is a great houseplant. It accepts low to medium light and enjoys regular watering after the soil dries out. Under more light, the leaves are brighter green. If the light is lower, the leaves take more of the brownish maroon shade. This is definitely a Begonia, like fellow rhizomatous Begonia Autumn Ember, that becomes more vibrant under bright light. The rhizomes on this and any rhizomatous Begonia can become unruly and eventually begin growing over the edge of the pot. It is fine to trim them back, it won’t harm the plant. Although this plant isn’t as heavy a feeder as some other Begonias, it’s beneficial to fertilize at least once a month with half strength fertilizer.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594751932705-8CD8TC9AHIGE4RDXDE3L/begoniaarmstop.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Rex Begonia “Jolly Silver”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This rhizomatous Begonia Rex lives exclusively under grow lights, and has for almost a year. In fact, this plant was very difficult to please before it finally found conditions of which it approved in the underground. It was initially living in a low lit bathroom where two other Rex begonias live happily. It wasn’t going to cut it for this Rex, however, and now it gets 14 hours of timed lights per day. Due to the conditions being relatively the same in light and temperature all year, the watering schedule for this plant is also predictable. It’s watered every 7-10 days currently. It’s fertilized less often than the other Begonias, as the growth is slower. It does, however, put out new growth all year. It would be fine to cut the rhizomes that are spilling over the pot, which I will do eventually. I’ll check the viability and possibly propagate them. With more light, the leaves have more silver and less green.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752555869-ICMCA8DBPUUAUYSH2W51/begoniashadowkingcoolwhite.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Rex Begonia Shadow King “Cool White”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Shadow King Rex begonias are a registered series of plants that have been bred to achieve certain goals. They are intended to remain an upright growth habit, maintain a smaller shape, and be especially tolerant of low light conditions. This “Cool White” has more vibrant color as a lower light houseplant than it would if it was outside in part sun. With more light, the leaves are almost completely white as the name suggests. This plant grows with jungle cacti because the care needs are similar. The light is mostly northern, so it is consistent but it isn’t intense. It lives near a humidifier and is watered just as the soil dries out. It isn’t fed heavily.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594753312423-LJIET9LJOQ9T99XV2HKO/begoniarexfirst.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Rex Begonia “Spitfire”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is the oldest Begonia we have at four years old. It lives in an exceptionally low light environment that also houses another Begonia Rex “Spitfire.” This “Spitfire” receives less light than the other, which causes the leaves to have more green. The second “Spitfire” has a deeper hot pink color to the leave and far less green. Both plants are very iridescent, an adaptation that allows low light plants to maximize the light that they do receive. This has always been a small plant (less than 4” at purchase) and it hasn’t grown much in its four years. It regularly puts out new leaves. For a while it would get brown tips, but after years adapting to its home, it hasn’t gotten a crispy tip in ages. This plant is proof that Begonia Rex might be a picky plant, but it is remarkably adaptable both in terms of light and overall environmental conditions.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752003473-UES4CJ0GLRV61SVX5OLG/Begoniabig.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia “Sophia”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Sophia is an Angel Wing Begonia of the Cane variety. She lives outdoors until the fall, which won’t help describe the experience of growing her as a houseplant. One thing that does not change with her environment, however, is her need for fertilizer. Cane Begonias need to be fertilized about twice a month with half strength fertilizer. They are heavy feeders, but it’s best to be cautious and avoid overfeeding and overwatering. Sophia will get an update this winter after she’s spent some time indoors.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752074891-NHM90O4VEIEUMSZW1HJA/begoniapotting3.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia “Gryphon”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant can grow quickly and reach several feet in height. Using a stake is helpful as the plant can become lopsided and difficult to keep upright due to its weight. The foliage has striking multicolored fingers that darken with age. They emerge reddish maroon or green and eventually darken to purples and grays. This plant lives in an east window where it has been for happy six seasons. The gentle morning light has provided great sustenance, and it requires less water than expected for its size. There is no supplementary humidity for this plant, and it hasn’t suggested that it needs it. This plant has never developed brown crispy edges, even when transitioning from an outdoor plant to a houseplant. This is a versatile plant that does very well as a houseplant if you can accommodate the size. This plant was purchased after already being over two feet tall, and has since grown another foot. It has a trunk like a tree with foliage sprouting from the top, but it probably could have been a more bushy plant had it been cut back before it became so tall.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752478909-62IYQ0X96LYJBCNHP6LX/begoniaautumnember.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia “Autumn Ember”</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Rhizomatous hybrid Begonia is in the process of being patented by Logee’s. The best information can be found on their webpage since they created this popular hybrid, but to echo some of their advice - this compact variety likes to dry out between waterings. It has small pink flowers, and to get the brightest orange foliage, it needs bright light. The Rhizomes can be cut back so the plant keeps a tidy form.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594752512801-TQC5J7ZI1YD108SAEEI6/Begoniared.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Begonia Unknown</image:title>
      <image:caption>There was some talk at the greenhouse that the name might be “Big Red,” but that remains unverified. The mature foliage has a more pink appearance, but the new foliage and stems is a deep red. This plant likes bright indirect light and household temperatures. It spent a few days outside during a transitional period, and it didn’t enjoy the heat. Temperatures in the 60s - 70s have been comfortable for this plant. Humidity hasn’t been an issue. It has been in an area where there is no supplementary humidity and it’s remained happy.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595540623161-8JOMCPYD0V2JV3ZI7RGS/IMG_4461.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Rex Begonia “Silver Limbo”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Details coming soon!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595540736052-TLGK5R3M7T5OI6I5N1JE/logo.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias - Coming Soon!</image:title>
      <image:caption>…</image:caption>
    </image:image>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775308475-GJKGHP1NU67BBKCLHLAK/IMG_1777.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>Dragon Leaf Begonia at Koraleski Flowers.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775280835-KI3NTM35QQVEXE6UQUN5/IMG_1544.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>Wax Begonias at Koraleski Flowers.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775395041-QERK5JWBQPCW6JVOSAWM/IMG_3511.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>Wax Begonias at Lakewood Flower Market.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775435300-QQUI9GOBSUWJCG8LH1V4/IMG_6889.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>Tuberous Begonias at Koraleski Flowers.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775634928-92PVR2796UOR61D8RNER/IMG_7930.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rex Begonias at Koraleski Flowers.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1594775711905-PWDFP5KPDDSRK7W9C2B5/IMG_5596.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Begonias</image:title>
      <image:caption>My second Begonia Rex “Spitfire” that receives more light than the first.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/soil</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2023-01-11</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595521852614-F0GAQAGTEOARJKGVS87P/soil.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>soil</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595480547203-66Y6TAYLD3AJ093GKDPK/Adjustments.jpeg</image:loc>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595480900243-I4O04G2FJHAYZ20FICML/Adjustments.jpeg</image:loc>
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      <image:title>soil</image:title>
      <image:caption>IKEA TRYGG Serving Bowl, $2.49 - no longer sold in stores, but I continue to use mine.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1595374799017-DDKZXEZSZH602KCCO7JC/IMG_4184.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>soil</image:title>
      <image:caption>IKEA DINERA Mug, $1.99</image:caption>
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    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/pole</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-09-16</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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    <image:image>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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      <image:title>Pole</image:title>
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    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/drilling-drainage-holes</loc>
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    <lastmod>2020-08-16</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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      <image:title>Drilling Drainage Holes</image:title>
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    <loc>https://www.midwesternjungle.com/lepismium</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-08-31</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597721706896-62UANUTC49Z6AR44Q2YV/lepismiumcruciforme.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Lepismium - Lepismium Cruciforme</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant is about as easy as it gets. It requires little attention to keep growing and thriving. No direct sunlight it best, but if it’s all you have, morning sun is preferable. This plant can tolerate some drought without suffering substantially, but if it is consistently underwatered, the stems will dry out. New growth begins upright and thinner and fills out with age, eventually draping over from its own weight. Most stems have three ridges, giving them a triangular shape, but periodically it does grow flat stems as shown at the front of the pot. The plant responds well to pruning. It is regularly trimmed to remain close to shelf length and Lepismium Cruciforme responds by producing more new growth closer to the top of the plant. This plant hasn’t flowered yet, so the flower color is to be determined. If sun stressed, the plant will produce a reddish cast on the stems. Some tips: Morning sun is great for this plant. Watering every 10-12 days is sufficient, depending upon your household conditions. Humidity is appreciated as well as the occasional bath when the plant is due for a thorough watering. Lepismium Cruciforme is a light feeder, like many jungle cacti. A diluted houseplant fertilizer every other water is good. I also top dress this plant with earthworm castings in the spring.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e5589cd35a07402b0172389/1597806759479-K3K0YP0VQ1DQ3PJY54YH/IMG_4028.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Lepismium - Lepismium Cruciforme Spiralis “Hurricane Cactus”</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lepismium Cruciforme Spiralis has dramatic twisting stems unlike the Lepismium Cruciforme. Most stems form tight spirals, but there are few that spiral more subtly. Most stems have are triangular. This low maintenance plant blooms all year long with tiny white flowers. The care is relatively the same as Lepismium Cruciforme. Growth is constant and random, but the chaotic beauty of this plant is something that is worth appreciating. For that reason, it has never been pruned or propagated and the plant and I are both content to keep it that way. This plant lives in a north window where it receives nice consistent light all day long. The intensity is low, but this still keeps Lepismium Cruciforme Spiralis in bloom. Some tips: Most tips are the same as listed above for Lepismium Cruciforme. Morning sun is ideal, not a heavy feeder, water when the plant dries out at the top of the soil, and humidity is always appreciated.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Lepismium - Lepismium Houlletianum</image:title>
      <image:caption>This plant is debated as a member of the Lepismium genus. I am including it on both the Rhipsalis and Lepismium pages so it can be searched under either genus. Oddly, this little guy can look like an Epiphyllum, too. It is a plant of mystery, and though I do love a mystery, I’d also love to get to the bottom of this one. Email me with any info if you have knowledge you wish to share. As a mature specimen, this plant is gorgeous. In fact, any specimen is gorgeous - mature or not. Often called “Snowdrop Cactus” or “Seaweed Cactus,” it is easy to see how this plant could have either name attributed to its appearance. Houlletianum does not have high light requirements. Bright indirect light or morning sun will suffice, but the plant will produce a reddish pink cast to the stems if given more light. It isn’t a heavy feeder, but I find that earthworm castings are beneficial. The stems can be felt for a soft or floppy feel to determine watering needs. Two of my three plants are in potting mix with perlite, and I find that I water them less frequently than the plant in chunky mix.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Lepismium - Lepismium Boliviana</image:title>
      <image:caption>Coming Soon.</image:caption>
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